The only city in the world that has been responsible for two world wars, and then been carved in two by one of the victors, Berlin in some ways shouldn't still exist.

That it does is testiment to its determination to be not a memory but a major centre of Europe in terms of power and style.

But it's still in the healing and rebuilding process and its centre is changing back towards what was East Berlin.

Emotional reminders of turbulent days gone by still remain dotted around the city, mixed in with record breaking amounts of graffiti! A city with mood and memories, but living and kicking.